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we are now based in Spain, this site shares our UK breeding experience
The best way to train your puppy - tips and
tricks
Telling the owner of a new puppy that it will need training, more often than not, falls
on deaf ears. But it is the only way to prevent the misery and sheer hard work
caused later on in life by so many badly behaved dogs. Badly behaved dogs are the
main reason or excuse used by owners wanting to re-home their dog after it has
wrecked the house or bitten someone, yet 99 times out of 100, it is not the fault of
the dog, but the owner who has failed to TRAIN his puppy from the minute it arrives
home that first day.
Many breeds are classed as "Dangerous" and to a certain extent, some strains
within a breed are likely to have more vicious tendencies than others. But even a
"Vicious" breed can be trained to fit in with a family and lose any unwanted traits if it
is in the right environment, is looked after and loved and most importantly is trained
well. Training clubs exist to help you in this task, manned by volunteers in most parts
of the country. They do not admit puppies until they have had all of their inoculations
at around 14 weeks old, so many that arrive there are almost past training as the rot
has already set in.
The period from seven weeks onwards is crucial as the pup develops its
independence from dam, brothers and sisters. By 16 weeks old, the domestic
problems which bring older dogs to a training club, are well rooted and flourishing.
Ideally, you should not purchase a puppy unless someone is home all day to look
after it. That person must be prepared to be its trainer, the one who makes the rules
and ensures they are obeyed. Other members of the family must keep to the rules or
the pup will become totally confused and fail to pick up the right routine. This does
not mean that they should not play with the pup, but they must not override the
trainers decisions.
The biggest nightmare with a new puppy is the nightly howl. You need to provide
your puppy with a bed in a quiet warm place. A large cardboard box with one side
cut down and lined with a blanket is fine. Never buy a wicker basket as this will be
eaten in a week! Your pup must sleep here at night, not on your sofa or the hearth
rug as he will grow and must know his own place. Try to fix the habit of day sleeping
in this one place as soon as possible, away from noises and children. Ensure there
is newspaper laid down nearby just in case. Feeling lost and alone at night he may
start howling! Make the night as short as possible by giving him a late night snack,
not forgetting to let him out to do his business. Get up early the first few days and let
him straight out to relieve himself again. If during the night he starts screaming you
have two choices;
1 - Ignore the noise completely until he gives up calling for your attention. If he gets
no response it may die out. This takes nerves of steel on yours and the neighbours
part, but must be total. Give in once and he will have you dancing up and down the
stairs all night long.
2 - Arrange to stay downstairs near but not too near, without taking any notice of
him. Don’t comfort him, praise him or shout at him and if he comes out of his box,
simply put him back. The problem usually only lasts a few days if you follow the
above advice, but it may be worth informing the neighbours in advance of bringing
home your pup and apologising before they get the chance to complain!
Sometimes a puppy is purchased who is already house trained, but it cannot be
expected to recognise where you desire it to do its business, for a few days. It must
still be watched closely, taken straight outside on waking or after eating and highly
praised the minute it does what it is supposed to do, where you want him to do it. Try
to use the same door and take him to the same area each time so that the pup soon
learns which door to go to when he wants to relieve himself. If you catch the puppy
relieving himself on the carpet, a loud NO is preferable to a smack! The tone of your
voice is far more effective than the back of your hand. Take him straight outside to
remind him that here is the correct area and wait for him to finish giving him then, his
normal praise. If you find a deposit indoors some time after the event, do not
chastise him as he will not know why you are doing so. We personally feel there is
no value in rubbing a puppies nose in it!
There is of course, more to training a puppy than toilet training! You have to be in
charge, so in those first few weeks, learn to capitalise on the pups natural actions.
Every pup can sit or lie down, he doesn’t need to be taught. But we need him to
learn to do it on command. Use the word SIT as the pup is actually in the process of
doing it himself and this will quickly reinforce the formal training you will be doing
and an immediate GOOD BOY will strengthen it even further. Remember, you must
praise immediately, if the pup is going to connect his action with your praise, and for
it to be effective.
Feeding time is ideal for further training as both praise and food are the reward for
doing as he is told! (verbal commands in capitals) Prepare the food out of his sight,
then call him by his name and COME. Make him SIT if necessary by gently pushing
down his back end, then make him WAIT. Put the food down a short distance from
him and make him WAIT. Give him plenty of praise as usual if he is doing as he is
told and then say TAKE IT and allow him to eat in peace. When he has finished,
make him WAIT for a few seconds more, then take him outside to relieve himself.
This ritual may seem tiresome, especially when in the early days and all he wants to
do is scoff down his food and the bowl as well, but it will pay off in the long run. Don’t
fall into the trap of skipping a few sessions as it will take you twice as long to get him
back into the ritual if you do.
Lead training can be a nightmare. All those weeks of running around un-hindered
are now at an end, its the end of the world he thinks! Before you even think about
lead training, put on a flat leather collar, or "choke chain" for a few days or even
weeks, to get him used to something round his neck. Then preferably in the garden,
attach a lead and let him fly round with it trailing behind him. Then pick it up and
without putting any restraint on it, try to get him to run along side you, making it a fun
game with his favourite toy in front of him. The neighbours might think you are mad,
but who cares as long as the pup is having fun. Slowly and over time, get him to run
up and down the garden by your side, not letting him lurch out in different directions
which if allowed now could be hard to cure.
You cant of course take him out into the big wide world, until he has finished his
inoculations. Don’t be tempted to do otherwise! You will need to take him out for
further lead training and socialising. Don’t let him run off the lead until you are happy
he will come back and is in a safe area. Take him to an open space and during your
walk, get him to SIT and WAIT for a while. If you have a longer lead, practise GO
ON, letting him out to play and investigate, then COME to bring him back to you. If
he wont come, then a gentle tug on the lead calling COME again until he gets used
to it. Encourage him as he comes giving plenty of praise and he will realise how
clever he is. Repeat these steps a few times before being tempted to let him loose.
Getting in and out of the car is another time for training practise. Don’t let him leap
straight in but get him to SIT as you open the door and WAIT until you are ready to
pop him in. IN THE CAR when you are ready, and say it even if you have to pick him
up and put him inside. Getting out it is even more important that he will SIT and
WAIT until you are ready, have the lead in your hand and have checked that the
coast is clear. Just reverse the operation, calling COME when it is safe.
The first visit to the vet is another new experience. Carry the pup in your arms and
do not let him contact the floor or other dogs. The vets surgery is a place for sick
animals where anything can be picked up. Keep him quietly comfortable on your
knee and try to avoid him barking, whining or wriggling about, just put him at ease.
Do not allow any bad behaviour now and you are well on the way to owning a pup to
be proud of.
Playtime is most important for a puppy. Although he has to learn who is in charge, he
is not in the Army and even here, a lot can be learnt. You must be fun to be with and
he must learn that attention to what you want him to do pays off. Try hiding his
favourite toy and encouraging him to look for it. If you are close when he finds it,
take it from his mouth saying GIVE and then GOOD BOY when he lets go. Repeat
this until it becomes second nature and a great game. It will come in useful later on!
If you allow him to rush off and chew it, you are heading for trouble. If he picks up
something he shouldn’t, gently go over to him and say GIVE and your training has
paid off.
If your puppy gets too excited and starts to use his teeth, you should use a loud NO
and quieten him down. Do not take a swipe at him as he will take this as being part
of the game and it will increase his excitement. If NO does not have the desired
effect and his excitement turns into aggression, you must stop the game immediately
and ignore him. After a few minutes, when he has cooled down, allow him to get
your attention again provided he has learnt his lesson. This action is of vital
importance as aggressive now will spell BIG TROUBLE in an adult dog and cannot
be overemphasised.
In conclusion, to enjoy your puppy throughout its life, he has to soon learn who is in
charge whilst enjoying life to the full. He has to be raised as you would a child. If he
is not to grow up into a villain, a little training is worth its weight in gold. Violence
towards him will result in violence returned, and it may be when you least expect it.
The tone of your voice should echo your feelings, GOOD BOY should be in a light
jocular voice, SIT or STAY should carry a sense of authority and NO should be short,
sharp and loud. In your infant puppy training you should not be using these deep
harsh tones but after four months of age your puppy should be introduced to them
provided he has been taught their meaning through the above exercises.
Training in the main is just a matter of using good old fashioned common sense, but
there are those who would say, if you had any common sense, you wouldn’t take on
a puppy!
We beg to differ.
Good Luck!